What I like:

I rarely find a product that impresses me, but the A1 Combo from Bambu Lab left me genuinely amazed with its performance and value. This 3D printer is excellent, with fast, quality printing at a great price. Adding the AMS Lite elevates it to the best printer you can buy right now. Plus, its four-color printing capability for less than $700 is such a good deal; I’m still baffled by how the company pulls off that pricing.

The CNET test print from the Bambu Lab A1 is nearly perfect. Only the Prusa Mk4s and Core One have managed to beat it overall. The overhangs were excellent, showing that the cooling on the A1 is working well, even at high speeds. I was also able to remove all four of the 3D-printed sticks used to test tolerance, though the 0.2mm stick took some wiggling to come free.

There is a lot more that I can say about this machine, most of which can be read about in my A1 Combo review, but the most important part of it is how simple it is to use. From opening the box to printing my first quality print took minutes, and it continues to produce fantastic models months after my first try. The A1 creates a lot of waste when printing in color, but that’s not a good reason not to buy this Bambu Lab machine. Whether it’s your first printer or another one for your collection, the A1 Combo is the number one printer to buy right now.

Who should get it:

There are very few people that the Bambu Lab A1 combo isn’t good for. I would especially point it out to anyone who is new to 3D printing or wants to get started and doesn’t know how. This is it. This is the place to start. You won’t be disappointed.

Who should avoid it:

If you already have a 3D printer or two, you likely don’t need the Bambu Lab A1 Combo unless you’re looking to break into color printing. If you’re already using a different style of machine, like a CoreXY, you’ll be better off sticking to that.

What I like:

The P2S is probably the best 3D printer you can buy right now. It’s not my top choice overall because the price isn’t quite at the level I would recommend for complete beginners, but it ticks every single box on what makes a great 3D printer. The P1S was outstanding, winning our best overall in 2023, and the P2S fixed all the tiny issues I had with its predecessor.

The CNET test print came out almost completely perfect, with some small stringing across the spires. The new airflow system enables you to print most materials without worrying about drafts or other issues, and the new print head, lifted from the H2D — Bambu Lab’s latest flagship — offers far more control over the material as it feeds through the nozzle. I love this 3D printer, and if you have the budget, you should consider owning one.

Who should get it:

If you have the cash to drop on an $800 printer, then this is the one you should get. Whether you’re just starting out or are a seasoned user, the P2S will give you the type of prints you want every single time.

Who should avoid it:

It all comes down to budget and bed size. If you have a smaller budget, then the best overall pick, the A1 Combo, is the smart choice. But, if your budget can handle the extra few hundred dollars, the P2S is where it’s at.

What I like:

The Core One is a CoreXY machine and Prusa’s answer to the X1C from Bambu Lab. It is a fantastic 3D printer in almost every way, capable of incredible accuracy and speed. I have spent hours printing as many different things as I can, and every single model I printed came out exactly as I expected it to. The new extruder works very well to make sure the amount of filament is precise, while the part fan helps cool the material to stop shrinkage that may change the accuracy. I especially like the air system within the enclosure, as it works to optimize the chamber for the type of material you’re using. Because of this, you don’t need to leave the door hanging open to print PLA; the Core One controls the airflow to make sure it doesn’t get too hot.

My CNET test print for the Core One is the best one I have ever seen, full stop. The overhangs look amazing up to 70 degrees, and the bridging showed almost no sagging across any of the distances. The spires were clean and pointy — that’s kind of the point of a spire — and the dimensional accuracy was perfect to within 0.01mm across the model. Even when I printed a 3D scan of myself, where the model had several errors, the Core One handled it expertly, giving me an excellent copy of myself to sit on my shelf.

Who should get it:

The Core One is an excellent alternative to the Bambu Lab machines, and, because it’s made by Prusa, it has security-first features and an upgrade path that just doesn’t exist for other manufacturers. Prusa looks after its 3D printers for the long haul. If you’re a tinkerer, you love open source and want high accuracy, the Core One is for you.

Who should avoid it:

While the Core One is ready to print straight out of the box, there are still some weird omissions. It doesn’t come with a camera, though one is available as an optional extra, which feels like it should be standard on a machine that costs more than $1,000. If you’re just starting in 3D printing and you aren’t sure how much you’re likely to use a 3D printer, I would suggest going for something more basic to start out.

What I like:

The Centauri Carbon is a stealthy entry into the best 3D printer group. On paper, it should have been a fairly generic low-priced 3D printer, but it plays with the big boys in ways I wasn’t expecting. The quality is exceptional for a printer in its price bracket, and the speed is surprising. It can reach the speeds that more expensive printers can without sacrificing quality, like other budget options often do.

Who should get it:

If you’re just starting out and you want a stable machine that will work consistently for a long time, then the Centauri Carbon is an excellent choice. It’s at the mid-range of the budget options, but swims happily in the big pool. Get it if you are looking for a budget workhorse.

Who should avoid it:

If you’re looking to get a color system that allows you to print a single model in multiple colors, then I would wait for the Centauri 2, or go with a different printer on this list. Elegoo says it is trying to create a color system for the Centauri Carbon, but who knows if that will ever happen?

What I like:

Bambu Lab has been killing it this year with its entire line. The H2D is no exception and could easily be a contender for the best overall, if not for its price and niche size. At $2,000 for the H2D Combo, it’s not easy to recommend as a starter printer, and the large print bed is particularly helpful only in specific situations.

That being said, the H2D is a joy to use in almost all of its configurations. The laser cutter version is good, though not as good as the best laser cutters, but the dual-head 3D printer setup is extremely good. I used it to print a pair of TPU shoes with PLA supports, and it worked so well that I wore them around New York City for two days.

Who should get it:

Anyone looking to print larger items, such as helmets or cosplay pieces, would do well with the H2D or H2S. The H2S only has one nozzle, but it can still use the AMS color system ,and it supports a larger print area. The H2D has a smaller usable bed size, but the dual nozzle allows you to play around with the supports a little more.

Who should avoid it:

This is not a cheap printer. The cheapest version is the H2S with no AMS, and it still costs $1,500. The H2D with one AMS 2 is the one I recommend, and it’s $2,000, so if you’re unsure whether you would use a printer of this size, you should probably start with something smaller.

What I like:

The Anycubic S1 has been specifically designed to compete with the Bambu Lab P1S, a midrange powerhouse and one of the best 3D printers of the last few years. It does exceptionally well for its price, making it our top choice for the best budget 3D printer of 2025. After testing with the optional ACE color system, I’ve little to say in terms of complaints. The only real issue is the software, as it lacks some of the core features that other slicers have. Thankfully, most 3D printers work with third-party slicers, giving you plenty of options to customize your print as you please.

The print area is a good size at 250 x 250 x 250 mm, and the enclosure allows you to print different filaments like ABS and PETG without issue. The door and removable top also help ventilate the S1 when you’re printing PLA, so you get the best of both worlds. The test model for the S1 was good but not spectacular. It failed the 0.2mm tolerance test, but so do most budget machines, and there was a little bit of stringing on the peaks, but overall, it was satisfactory for a budget machine.

Who should get it:

For anyone looking to start 3D printing and wants to try printing in multiple colors immediately, the Anycubic S1 is a great starting point. It’s affordable and works very well for the price.

Who should avoid it:

If you’re looking to print multiple materials, and not just multiple colors of the same material, you may want to look elsewhere. The ACE is not quite advanced enough to cope with that kind of printing.

What I like:

The A1 Mini Combo is an almost perfect entry to the world of color 3D printing. It’s well priced, and while the build area is small, the quality of the print — and the fact you can print in four colors straight out of the box — is amazing. I’ve spent hours using it to make cool little things for kids and having them learn what all the pieces do, too. Despite it being small and cheap, the CNET test print showed very few issues, though there was evidence of some ringing in the raised text.

Read more: A1 Mini Combo review

The Mini Combo comes with an app that makes it simple to get started and allows you to monitor the print while you’re away. The software on your computer is easy to use and can be set up immediately. If you’re unsure about 3D printing and want a cheap way to get started, this is the printer for you.

Who should get it:

I love the A1 Mini and would recommend it for just about everybody. If you have someone in your life whom you want to get a big present, the A1 Mini is the perfect gift. I especially think it’s great for children, with adult supervision, of course, as it’s small, easy to use and just so much fun.

Who should avoid it:

The build area on the A1 Mini is small by design, but may be too small for a seasoned 3D printing enthusiast. If you want something bigger, I would look at the full-size A1 instead.

Update: The Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is now the new hotness, and though I haven’t managed to review it yet, I still think you would be good to buy it instead of the 3 Ultra. I am almost 100% sure that all the things the Saturn 3 Ultra does well, the 4 Ultra will do well, too.

What I like:

The Elegoo Saturn 3 is an almost perfect upgrade from its predecessor, the Saturn 2. It has a bigger build area, if only by 10mm, and is much higher resolution — 1,1520 x 5,120 vs. 7,680 x 4,320 on the Saturn 2 — creating better-quality prints. It’s fast, too, printing models at what feels like twice the speed you’d expect at 150 mm/hr. I can print an entire plate of D&D minis in less than an hour, which is just astounding when you think about how long that would take on an FDM printer.

As I said in my review, the 12K screen makes almost any model you print look better. The Witch King of Angmar model I printed shows each tiny pit in the rusty armor, and even 2-inch tall miniatures look crisp and clear.

Who should get it:

Resin 3D printers are for people who need prints with excellent details. Resin is best for printing tiny models like miniatures or complex models like jewelry or cosplay items, so if you’re looking to make that kind of 3D print, then Saturn 3 Ultra (or the newer Saturn 4 Ultra) is the right choice.

Who should avoid it:

Resin 3D printing requires several processes to be safe, and those processes smell and are toxic. If you don’t have a well-ventilated and safe area to use a resin 3D printer, then you should stay clear of the Saturn 3 Ultra. An FDM printer is much less hazardous to your health.

What I like:

The Adventurer 5M and the 5M Pro are two excellent 3D printers from Flashforge. They aren’t fancy, and you can see they draw significant influence from the P series from Bambu Lab — but what they do, they do well, and they do it at an enticing price. A solid CoreXY printer that can print dependably at 300mm/s is not to be sniffed at, and one that’s reasonably priced is well worth your time. I especially like the Flashprint software that allows you to network several printers at the same time effortlessly.

The CNET test prints from both the 5M and 5M Pro did a good job, but they weren’t mind-blowing. There was a lot of stringing, and the tolerance test was not the best, but there was no ringing. The overhangs and bridges were excellent, too, so we know the cooling fan is doing its job there. I did notice that the build plates were a little slippy, and I had a few prints fail until I started using the best 3D printing accessory: hairspray.

Who should get it:

I really like the Adventurer 5M Pro for schools. It’s simple to use, simple to repair and enclosed to keep little fingers out of harm’s way. The software makes it very easy to control multiple machines at once, so it’s easy to keep an eye on a bunch of them around the school.

Who should avoid it:

If you’re looking for a color system with your cool, new printer, then the Flashforge is not for you. But for most beginners, it’s a good jumping off point.

What I like:

Resin printers are the next step up in rapid prototyping design technology when you want your printing to look as high-quality as possible. Just be warned: Liquid resin is harder to work with, requiring good ventilation and a portable UV light to cure properly. D&D miniatures work perfectly on a resin printer like this, and I recommend this one to start making your own minis.

The Photon Mono 2 is an older model now; they update them so fast, and the Mono 4 is now the obvious update. I haven’t used it, but I know that it’ll be as good as the Mono 2, if not better. It’s also cheaper than the older model. It has a sharp 10K screen, giving much better details, and the build plate is laser-etched to hold the model where it needs to be.

Who should get it:

The Mono 2 (or the Mono 4) is perfect for someone who wants to make a lot of Dungeons and Dragons miniatures or small pieces of jewelry. The 10K screen offers up exquisite details at a cost that is hard to beat.

Who should avoid it:

Resin is toxic and shouldn’t be used by young children or in spaces that don’t have good ventilation. Its toxicity is also chronic, so it gets worse over time. If you do decide to buy one, make sure you’re using all the available protective equipment.

Most home 3D printers use PLA or ABS plastic. Professional printers can use all sorts of materials, from metal to organic filament. Some printers use a liquid resin, which is much more difficult to handle. As a beginner, use PLA. It’s non-toxic, made mostly of cornstarch and sugarcane, handles easily and is inexpensive. It’s more sensitive to heat, so don’t leave your 3D prints on the dashboard of a car on a hot day. 

For a more detailed explanation of the different materials, check out our best filament article. 

What brand is best will depend on the job you’re trying to do. If you want to print something that looks amazing with no post-processing, Polylite from Polymaker is a great choice, with a large range of colors and finishes.

If you’re printing something that’s going to be sanded and painted, like cosplay armor, I would go with MatterHackers Build PLA. It’s easy to sand, holds paint well and is cheaper the more you buy.

Most 3D printers include or link to recommended software, which can handle converting 3D STL or other files into formats supported by the printer. Stick with the suggested presets to start, with one exception. I’ve started adding a raft, or bottom layer of filament, to nearly everything I print. It has cut down dramatically on prints that don’t adhere to the print bed properly, which is a common issue. If you continue to have problems, rub a standard glue stick on the print bed right before printing.

Your 3D models probably need some help to print properly, as these printers don’t do well with big overhangs. For example, an arm sticking out from a figure. Your 3D printer software can usually automatically calculate and add supports, meaning little stands that hold up all those sticking-out parts of the model. After the print is done,  and file down any nubs or rough edges with hobby files. 

Thingiverse.com is a huge online repository of 3D files for anything and everything you can think of. Pokemon chess set? It’s there. Dyson vacuum wall mount? You bet. 

You can also try Printables.com for the latest models. Printables uses a gamified reward system that can earn you free filament just for uploading pictures of the things you make.

When you’re ready to create your own designs, there are a ton of software packages to choose from, but it’s easiest to start with the browser-based free TinkerCad app from Autodesk.

3D printers are often available throughout the year at a discount price. Special days like Prime Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday are great occasions to pick yourself up a new machine, but there are still plenty of deals to be had throughout the year. Make sure you stay fluid and choose your 3D printer deal based on the availability of the machine and what your research has told you is the best.